At the Metropole restaurant in downtown Cincinnati with the new head chef Vanessa Miller in her helmet

Exterior view of the 21c Museum Hotel und Metropole “itemprop =” image “/>Metropole, with head chef Vanessa Miller at the helm “itemprop =” image “/>Interior of the dining area “itemprop =” image “/>Selection of dishes in the restaurant in the city center “itemprop =” image “/>Fried salmon with smoked Greek yogurt, green tomatoes, summer cucumber, farro, hot honey vinaigrette and crispy pieces “itemprop =” image “/>Calamari fried in corn flour with pickled plums, ink and radish sprouts “itemprop =” image “/>Dining area “itemprop =” image “/>Burrata with grilled Sixteen Bricks bread, stone fruit, heirloom tomatoes, sweet and sour onions and poppy seeds “itemprop =” image “/>Dining room “itemprop =” image “/>Strawberry and pea salad with red quinoa, spinach, goat cheese and balsamic vinegar “itemprop =” image “/>Duck with charred Foxtail Farms radishes, green apple, sprouts and roasted seeds “itemprop =” image “/>Chocolate coconut crunch with coconut mousse, chocolate, caramel crunch cake and coconut caramel sauce “itemprop =” image “/>Selection of dishes on the menu of the Metropole “itemprop =” image “/>Seating at the front of the restaurant overlooking Walnut Street “itemprop =” image “/>Alley between Metropole and Nicholsons “itemprop =” image “/>Exterior view of the metropolis “itemprop =” image “/>Dining area with a view of the kitchen “itemprop =” image “/>

Vanessa Miller, originally from Cincinnati, came on board at the 21c Museum Hotel in the fall of more than a decade in restaurant positions in Massachusetts and New York as head chef at the downtown Metropole.

Chef Miller’s late summer menu offers plenty of temptations, with more than half a dozen starters, four salads, three pastas, and seven main courses. Miller said this was the fifth or sixth menu under her supervision and had achieved what she was aiming for. This menu represents “well-executed food that is playful and fun without being overly fussy,” she said. “And it feels very much like now – like in late summer.”

What turned out to be our shared favorite dish of the meal came with the first course: cornmeal crusted calamari with pickled plums and radish sprouts ($ 12), which was one of our server’s suggestions when we wavered between it and a few other starters? . The squid itself was top notch, as fresh as possible, and the result of the quick frying resulted in a dish perfectly crisp and without a hint of fat.

Read the full review from CityBeat restaurant critic Pama Mitchell here.

| Photos by Hailey Bollinger

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